1. Academic Validation
  2. Peptides as Active Ingredients: A Challenge for Cosmeceutical Industry

Peptides as Active Ingredients: A Challenge for Cosmeceutical Industry

  • Chem Biodivers. 2021 Feb;18(2):e2000833. doi: 10.1002/cbdv.202000833.
Patrycja Ledwoń 1 2 Fosca Errante 1 3 Anna Maria Papini 4 Paolo Rovero 1 Rafal Latajka 2
Affiliations

Affiliations

  • 1 Interdepartmental Laboratory of Peptide and Protein Chemistry and Biology, Department of Neurosciences, Psychology, Drug Research and Child Health-Section of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Nutraceutics, University of Florence, 50019, Sesto Fiorentino, Firenze, Italy.
  • 2 Department of Bioorganic Chemistry, Faculty of Chemistry, Wroclaw University of Science and Technology, 50-370, Wroclaw, Poland.
  • 3 Espikem S.r.l., 59100, Prato, Italy.
  • 4 Interdepartmental Laboratory of Peptide and Protein Chemistry and Biology, Department of Chemistry 'Ugo Schiff', University of Florence, 50019, Sesto Fiorentino, Firenze, Italy.
Abstract

Cosmeceutical field, which merges cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, is nowadays a highly investigated Research Area, because a scientific demonstration of the claimed bioactivity of new cosmeceutical ingredients is increasingly requested. In fact, an aspect differentiating traditional cosmetics from cosmeceuticals is the identification and characterization of the active ingredients and demonstrating its efficacy in the claimed activity. An interesting group of bioactive cosmeceutical ingredients are Peptides, which due to their particular properties, meets most of the requirements presented by the cosmeceutical industry when composing new formulas. In this context, beside bioactivity, two additional aspects have been recently considered, when dealing with Peptides as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioavailability and stability. We describe herein novel methods applied in order to enhance Peptides skin-penetration and stability, reviewing both scientific articles and patents, issued in the cosmeceutical arena.

Keywords

cosmeceuticals; drug delivery; peptide bioavailability; peptide-based cosmetics; peptides.

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